Dealing with Dog to Dog Problems 7

Dealing with Dog to Dog Problems 25/07/09

Easing tensions within groups of dogs.


As with any aggression cases you must consult a professional that can assess your dog on a one to one basis.  In cases were your dog is wary or overly boisterous with others you can employ dog training techniques to ease tensions and allow your dog to enjoy the company of his or her canine counterparts and this article will show you how.

Commands

Before you begin any work with your dog or puppy you need to teach the ‘leave it’.  Also you need to be aware of reading your dogs body language. Make sure you have taught your dog to sit, you will be using this as a control measure.  Also that good means good as this will be used for positive reinforcement.  I know these are a lot of commands and information but it really is the only way to get to grips with this difficult problem.

Communicating with your dog

Dogs feed off our body language.  Make sure you are relaxed and in control at all times.  If you see another dog and tense up, they will feel it and fear it.  Making them feel either vulnerable or empowered as your body language is telling them their actions are correct.  Keep reminding yourself, shoulders back relaxed lead and calm but firm tone of voice.

Possible reasons for dog to dog problems

Before you begin trying to deal with any behavioural problem make sure you have had a full check up at the vets.  Many people begin training their dogs, trying to alter behaviour when in fact much of the behaviours seen are caused by medical problems that can manifest themselves as aggression and other undesirable behaviours.  A dog with a sore paw may find that when other dogs try to play with them it aggravates the pain.  They can then redirect this feeling of pain onto the other dog, seen as aggression.  It is simply the dog making the link of ‘when I play with other dogs I feel pain’, this then leads to the mere sight of the other dog causing fear, which can lead to aggression directed toward the other dog.

Many aggression cases can be based upon fear, which you should be able to recognise after reading your dogs body language. There is also the case of dominant dogs, often seen in male:male or female:female.  This is due to raging hormones and the fight for increased fitness (the ability to reproduce).  Having you dog castrated or spayed should be done immediately with dogs suffering from dog aggression.  Prior learnt behaviour is also a big factor and it is very important to examine your dogs history prior to the problem occurring.   If they were attacked by a dog previously or were chastised in the company of other dogs is vital information that will adapt your training programme dramatically.  If you can consult your local behaviourist they can help you determine the root cause of the aggression.

If your dog has shown aggression and is likely to cause any injury to yourself, another person or dog then you must muzzle your dog when out and consult a professional behaviourist immediately.  You will be liable for any damage caused by your dog and aggression cases should not be taken lightly.  Your local vet should be able to inform you of a reputable dog trainer.

Start at a distance

If you have determined that your dog is fit and healthy and not a risk to others or yourself and you are wanting to begin changing your dogs perception of other dogs you are going to have to take things pretty slowly at first.  Beginning with a distance whereby your dog will tolerate others.  They need to be able to keep attention on you when you give the leave it command and be in a state whereby they can accept affection and treats.  Slowly moving closer towards other dogs on a daily basis.  Give the ‘leave it’ command and when your dog removes focus from the other dog follow the sequence – good dog, treat.  Keep telling your dog all the time the behaviour you want.  If your dog is not lunging or barking then its ‘good’, treat.

Closing the gap

Slowly you will find yourself creeping closer and closer to other dogs.  When you are at the point of about a metre, throw treats on the floor for your dog to eat, this will send calming signals to the other dog allowing them to relax.  This is due to a head down sniffing body posture allows the other dog to feel more secure.

When the dogs meet encourage a nose to backside meet.  Nose to nose often ends in disaster even in placid dogs.  Allow them to sniff each other for no more than two seconds, saying ‘good’ as they do.  Watch your dogs tail position, if it is high and their hackles are up, leave it there that is enough for one day, you need to build slowly.  If your dog is relaxed still walk the dog away and praise thoroughly.  Return and allow sniffing for four seconds.  At first this is enough, do not continue just take your dog home happy with the progress. Always end on success and don’t push for too much too fast!

Introductions to known friendly dogs

Try to meet people with relaxed dogs and allow your dog to interact with these.  Avoid dogs with known aggression or that are overly playful.  You basically want a dog that is going to ignore your dog, no matter what.

Corrections

Whilst going through this process if your dog growls, lunges or barks a firm ‘no’ in a strong turn of voice, whilst turning and facing the other direction is needed.  Your dog does need to know right from wrong so you need to give the correct feedback.  Taking a car to the park is a good idea then as soon as they growl etc. you can take them straight back to the car as punishment.  They will soon learn they don’t get walked if they behave that way.

Socialisation

Mixing your dog from an early age with the right type of dogs is the only way to go.  If you are trying to mix an already aggressive dog, remember, muzzle!  Do not overwhelm them with a dog park; keep things simple and fun and build up to this.  Classes where you can partake but on the sidelines at a good distance from other dogs is great.  This makes your dog get used to being around other dogs whilst engaging in a mentally taxing sport.  You can slowly edge towards the other dogs week by week.  You can also learn what dogs trigger your dog and what appeases them.  Working with the appeasing dog before moving on to the more difficult dogs, once your dog is showing no traces of aggression or anxiety.

Series NavigationReading Your Dog’s Body Language»

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7 Responses to this article

 
Martin February 18, 2010 Reply

Can I just point out that if you know you have an aggressive do you will have to declare it before you insure the dog or any claims will probably not be valid.

If you have an aggressive dog that is already insured you can probably make a claim for behaviour help but only if you get help from accredited behaviourists such as the APBC or UKRCB members.

 
Louise March 8, 2010 Reply

Yes you are right this is a great comment for any one dealing with these kind of problems. It may be a useful comment under the insurance post too! Thanks for that Martin, much appreciated! I know insurance companies are beginning to become more flexible about paying for behavioural consults which is great news for all dog owners. :)

 
Mark February 28, 2010 Reply

Hi,

We have a small dog, a shih-tzu / yorkie mix. Super cute. She’s generally very good except for one thing. We live in an apartment building and she barks very loudly when she hears people outside our door. We live by the elevator so there are people passing by all the time.

We’ve tried opening the door to let her see it’s nothing to be afraid of (she never barks at people unless she wants to play). But that’s not really practical as we can’t open the door every time. And it doesn’t stop the barking.

We’ve tried being very firm and saying “no” but that only stops her for a few seconds. We’ve tried picking her up but that seems to reinforce to her that something is wrong and she had a reason to bark. What should we do? She knows how to sit and is pretty good with the “good” commands. But we’d really like to have her stop barking at the door and people walking outside.

 
Louise March 8, 2010 Reply

Hi,
This is a bit of a tricky problem. It sounds like she really needs more to focus her energy on. Try stuffed kongs and hiding treats along with walks of at least 30 mins per day (even little dogs need good walks). On top of all that i would try a DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) diffuser to take the anxiety down a little (you can get these from your vet. As for treating the immediate problem, every time she begins to bark take her by the collar (do not pick her up) and lead her into another room and shut the door until she settles down. This is going to take a lot of you getting up and down at first but she will quickly catch on that barking leads to her being excluded from ‘family time’ and this will reduce the behaviour. You may find she barks a little more at first in an attempt to get your attention but it will soon settle down if you are consistent. Try not to engage with her when she barks and avoid eye contact, punishment or affection as you lead her out as this kind of behaviour is attention seeking. Hope this helps you out. Let me know how you get on.

 
Ashleigh June 15, 2010 Reply

Hi There, i have an 11th month old boxer puppy and he is an angel on the walk apart from when we see other dogs, however he is not agressive but as we get closer to other dogs he lowers himself to the ground and starts to crawl with his tail still wagging and then will jump at them, he doesnt bite them or anything, i just want to know how i could get him out of this habit before it gets any worse.

 
Louise June 15, 2010 Reply

Hi Ashleigh, hope you are well, it’s nice to hear from you! First comment of the new look site in fact :) That is an interesting behaviour, it sounds like pure puppy playing and he is probably on the submissive side which makes him pretty sensitive, so be careful not to chastise him too harshly if you have to tell him ‘no’. Is he really food motivated? You can teach him the ‘leave it’ cue which will teach him to stop what he is doing and look to you.

The crawl is part of the sequence that leads to the jump so if you nip that crawl in the bud the jump will also be stopped. In order to do this you can keep him on the lead and as he begins crawling to the other dog, turn in the other direction so you are both facing away from the other dog, then turn back and approach but if he begins crawling turn away again. This will teach him that he only gets to interact with the other dog if he walks over calmly. This goes for any other undesirable behaviour he may display on the approach to the other dog.

Personally I would do both then you have a strategy for on leash and off and you will the ‘leave it’ command comes in pretty handy any way. Try this for a few days and let me know how it goes :)

 
adele October 25, 2010 Reply

hi, hope someone can help me! i have an 8 week old russell scottie, and he keeps going for my 8 months old babys face! i keep telling him no, and tap him on the nose but he wont stop trying! also can anyone give me some good tips on training him to go “pee pee” on the training mat and not on my carpet?! plz help! thanks x

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